How to Run Wire in New Construction

Obviously new construction is a lot easier to get cable where you want than in an existing house, but you have to watch for a few things:

First of all, you should be aware of building codes in your area. They often vary from county to county (I'm talking U.S.). You can probably obtain the information you need from your builder, or if you know someone who does this type of thing for a living, they can be a helpful resource, too. Naturally, you can always go to your county officials, & hopefully get straight answers.

If you don't know anyone in a low-voltage industry like security or telephone, then it might be good to strike up a relationship with a local wire distributor. Hey, this is a good thing anyway. If you can get set up with a house account and buy your materials from them, you can save substantially over what it would cost to buy from retail.

You can always buy from local retailers like Home Depot or other hardware stores - or even (hate to say it) Radio Shack.

Generally speaking, though, here are a few tips: (check these out with Code in your area):

1. TOOLS: Gosh. You need these. Actually, you don't need too much. You'll need a drill with wood "spade" bits (if you can get a cordless you'll thank yourself - I'd recommend 18V or better). You'll also need a stepladder, plastic "tie wraps" (ask a cabling distributor for these - or Radio Shack if you've got mucho moolah), and either a staple gun or some kind of wire anchors for hanging your cabling.

NOTE from Experience: If you use a staple gun, BE CAREFUL! LOOK at every staple you fire! It's worth the extra time to verify that you didn't shoot through the cable when you consider the aggravation that could come trying to troubleshoot later. Also be sure that you don't "pinch" the cable too tightly.

2. TRICKS: While you want to keep your wire runs up inside the joists so they will be out of the way of drywall, you can take advantage of water pipes and HVAC ductwork by following them. This will save you a lot of drilling through ceiling joists. Always look for the simplest path!

3. Low-voltage wire cannot be run vertically through cold-air returns (where I'm at, anyway), but may be permissible to run horizontally through the chase. Check to see whether you'll need to enclose it in conduit. In commercial construction, your wire would also have to be "plenum" grade, though I personally haven't found this to be an issue residentially.

4. Wait until all the other mechanicals have been completed (electric, HVAC, etc.) to do your runs. I can't tell you how many times I've had to repair my cabling because someone else butchered it with a drill - or just plain cut it because it was "in their way." Of course, having said that, make sure you don't do the same thing. Always check the other side of a stud or wall before you drill.

Here's an "oh my gosh how could I be so stupid?" story from about 20 years ago when I was making my "learning mistakes:" I was using a hammer-drill to penetrate the outside of a brick home, trying to enter the basement. SOMETHING was blocking my drill. It would only go so far and just wouldn't penetrate any more. Eventually I got wise and went inside to check things out. Seems someone just had to put that breaker box right where I wanted to drill.

Was I lucky. You must believe me when I tell you I NEVER make mistakes like that anymore. Not for years and years now.

5. Drill your own holes through studs - don't use the electrician's! You want to keep as far away from his stuff as is practical so that you don't pick up electrical noise.

6. When you're done, you might need to fill the extra space in the holes you drilled with "firestop" (depending on code), which can be found at just about any hardware store. This rule usually only applies to holes drilled vertically inside of walls (through floors and ceilings).